Friday, February 26, 2010-

Today is an Islamic holiday and the schools and universities are closed. I am spending my day in transit from Batam back to Jakarta.

I was surprised to have a visitor to my hotel room. At Thursday’s dinner I met a young woman who I believe is from the Business Association of Batam. We didn’t exchange many comments as her English wasn’t very good and of course I couldn’t speak in her language. So a few smiles and a few pleasantries were the extent of our communication. She arrived at my door with a large package. It was wrapped and I wasn’t sure what it was. While I am grateful for gifts and for the thought, the first concern was I am already overweight with luggage and it is SO difficult for me to transport my stuff from place to place. How am I going to get this big box home?

I checked out of my hotel room in Batam and took the equivalent of the hotel shuttle to the airport (cost Rp. 90.000 plus I gave him a Rp. 10,000 tip—equivalent $10. I am not sure if you are supposed to tip or not, but I am always happy when the event is uneventful. At the airport I allowed the porter to help me with my bags. What’s a Rp.50,000 tip (equivalent of $5.00)? This really helped because he squeezed through the crowds with those heavy bags on a cart. At the last airport I really struggled! Another lesson learned.

The person at the ticket counter was kind and although he spoke very little English, we got through the overweight charges (Rp. 300,000 --- $30). I think I was really taken when I flew from Jakarta to Medan. The SAME baggage and I was charged Rp 750,000 or $75). Those rupiahs can add up!

I found the airport tax counter and paid the Rp 30,000 tax. I feel like I am becoming a pro at this. And, I found the gate without a problem. The flight was uneventful and I my reservation with the taxi meant that someone greeted me at the baggage claim. Arrived at the hotel and all was well.

I took a walk through the shopping mall connected to the hotel. It is a big modern mall. Now that I have toured Indonesia I can really see the difference between the people of Jakarta and the people elsewhere. In the mall I saw many young women dressed in mini-skirts and other skimpy attire. You would never see a woman dressed that way in Medan or Balikpapan.

Back at the hotel my curiosity got the better of me and I opened the package that was delivered this morning. When I opened it I found a beautiful traditional and handcrafted doll. I truly love it and know now that it will be worth it to take the extra trouble to carry it home.

Thursday, Feb. 25. – The last day of Presentations!!

Today was the last day of formal presentations in Indonesia. It was a killer day with four presentations and two meetings with the press. I was even interviewed for television. Since this will be on Indonesian TV and in the language of Bahasa Indonesian, I probably won’t see it.

The first presentation was at the State University of Batam. The campus was much prettier than the other campuses I have visited. I entered into a very unique presentation hall. The students were seated in a sort of balcony while the faculty and administration sat on the same level as the dais. The presentation went as planned and was followed by lots of pictures and promises that I probably will not be able to keep.

We had to rush to the second presentation at Politeknik Batam. This campus was also quite nice. This technical college offers programs in electronics technology, and information technology. I had a smaller audience than expected – only about 35 students, but the students said they didn’t need translation so I was able to just speak. It is really much easier to give a talk without having to share the podium with a translator. I also think that the speech is more interesting.
Lunch was at a seafood soup restaurant. While that doesn’t sound too appetizing, I had a shrimp soup that actually was good. They serve the soup with a scoop of rice on the side. I added the rice to the soup and had a fairly good lunch.
Presentation number three was at the Batam International University. This new private institution was modern and inviting. The rector had been educated in the US and was very happy to welcome us. Since this was an international university, English is important. I was allowed to give my speech without an interpreter. I was presented with several small gifts such as a plaque, pen, and pad of paper.
No, the day was not yet over. The next stop was a presentation and discussion with the Vocational School Teacher Association. There were a about 30 teachers in the audience. At the end of the program I was given a stack of certificates to sign. It appears that I was faculty development and that the teachers would get some kind of credit for attending.

The last responsibility was to have a tea with the media. I was so tired that I asked the interpreter to just talk to them. Rachma had heard my talk so many times that she didn’t need to hear it from me again. Yes, there were a few questions that Rachma interpreted but I just let her take the lead.

Before I end my entry I want to say a few words about some disappointments. I am disappointed with the level of corruption that hinders development. I am told that almost any endeavor requires a pay off to somebody. I am also disappointed with the labor laws. Workers here are hired for three year contracts only. The labor laws dictate that if an employee works at a company for more than 3 years he/she is entitled to some severance pay. So, what the employers do is fire everyone after 3 years so that they do not have to pay the severance later. There is an oversupply of laborers and a shortage of jobs. So, employers can find a ready stock of workers. Further, I am told, that employers generally will not hire anyone over 25. Many of the women cannot find work. Or after a few of those contracts, they become too old to be hired. Many of these women are forced into the only occupation available that will allow them to eat. Hence, Batam serves as a major location for men from Singapore, Malaysia, and other places to find prostitutes. I am also told that children are for sale too. Our driver said that they call the “red light district” of Batam the “foreigner’s area” because that is where so many of the foreigners go.

Rachma, my interpreter was telling me about some of the problems she has had with maids. It is very common here for women of even modest means to have a maid. But Rachma told me stories of how the maids sometimes rent their children to beggars who will drug them and hold them in the streets while they beg for money. A mother with a small baby is more likely to receive a donation.

I also learned that because Batam is so close to Singapore and Malaysia it serves as a convenient location for some men keep their “second wives.” I learned that having multiple wives is permitted in Islam. While this is not a popular practice, apparently some men do practice polygamy.

So in addition to providing an education in Indonesia, it seems that I have also received one.

Feb. 24 - Onto Batam

The logic here is sometimes different. For example, I was told that I would be picked up at 7:30 AM. Since I had to check out of the hotel and I wanted to have breakfast (usually my most substantial meal of the day), I awoke early. I packed and did all of the things necessary. I tried to get the bellman to help me with my bags but after waiting about 10 minutes I feared I would be late so I just brought them down myself. I have two suitcases, one large and one small, that are really heavy. I have received several plaques for my work here and they are bulky and heavy. The weight of the bags have been of concern for me because although I easily can pass the baggage allowance for international flights, I am way over-weight for these domestic flights within Indonesia. And, today is one of those flights.

The driver did arrive at 7:30-ish and informed me that it was too early; I should wait in the lobby for a while because the meetings weren’t going to begin(?). So, I don’t know……. Why they had to send the driver to tell me this rather than to call my hotel room where I could have worked more comfortably or had taken more time to get ready for the day’s events, I do not understand. It is just different here. So I sat in the lobby for 20 minutes until the driver said it was time to go.
I was driven to the consulate office. I met with three reports from Medan newspapers. I am not sure if I will ever see their stories, but they seemed somewhat interested. There was a story printed in the Jakarta Globe today about community colleges and mentioned my name. I stumbled on it through my Google Alert setting.

The first presentation was at another vocational high school. I had a very warm reception – both literally and figuratively. While things were being set-up I went through the audience shaking hands and asking students their names and ages. Most students could understand rudimentary English. My speech was translated. At the end of the talk we had the very common rush to take pictures. This is as close to a celebrity I will ever be so I reveled in the attention of so many adorable students wanting to have a picture taken with me. Two students even asked for my autograph!
The high school aged students here are very different from their American counterparts. These students are still children. They still giggle and they enjoy games.

I needed to exchange some money so I asked if I could visit the money changer. I learned a few more Indonesian oddities. First, the moneychangers do not like small bills; they prefer 100’s and the exchange rate is lower if changing smaller bills. Second, they will deduct money if the bills were folded or dirty or look used. My interpreter suggested that since I was not exchanging a $100 bill, and my bills showed signs of age that it would be to my benefit to go to the ATM machine. The ATM was in English and Bahasa so I was able to withdraw some rupiahs. Another lesson learned.

We then went to the Medan airport to fly to Batam. The airport was a zoo. There were so many people. The manners here are different. I was trying to get through the airport but not making much progress. My interpreter told me that I must just push my way through or else I will never make it. So, I tried to do my best. The bottom line is that I made it to the plane, and the flight was uneventful. I am to spend the next two nights in Batam.

Feb. 23-- Another Busy day on the Island of Sumatra

The activities of the day began with a about an hour’s drive to the city of Stabat. I gave a presentation to about 70 teachers and government officials. The presentation was a large building that had a resemblance to a mosque. The room was not air conditioned, but there were a few ceiling fans.

We then had lunch at an Indonesian restaurant. This restaurant puts a series of about 8 small plates filled with different foods on the table. The customers are charged only for the dishes that they eat. I couldn’t help but wonder how this process really works. So, the food on my table may have sat on other tables but was not eaten. Hmmmm……. I wonder what US health officials would think of this system. I didn’t eat much—just couldn’t work up the appetite.

The next presentation was at the Universitas Muhammadiyah Sumatera Utara. This university offers a blend of general curriculum and Islamic teachings. I presented to over 100 students and administrators. The room was air-conditioned and I felt much better than I did in the morning presentation.

By the time I was done with the second presentation, it was after 4 PM. But, the day was not over. The next venue was a tea with prominent officials and educators at The Consulate. The Consulate is where the Consul General lives. It is almost a palace. It has a sentry and a high fence. The home is enormous. I saw two maids (but I am sure there are more). There were 10 people present, each representing a different institution or organization. The topic of discussion was how can Indonesia begin a focused vocational program? Eyes looked to me for the answer. I provided some ideas but none of them were especially enlightened. There is a serious problem here with corruption. As long as the corruption exists, even the best of ideas are destined to fail.

Back to hotel. Tomorrow I have a meeting with the media and another presentation to a vocational high school. Then I am on a flight to Batam. Batam is an island and city in Riau Islands Province of Indonesia.

Week 2 of Programs: Monday February 21, 2010

The first presentation of the week was at Medan State University. The room was filled with about 70 students, faculty, and administrators. Medan State is one of three universities in Medan. It attracts students from all over the country. Their specialty is teacher training. The appearance of the campus was as expected for a public institution in Indonesia. The campus is not pretty, but the students are eager to learn and are appreciative of the opportunity to go to college. The talk went as planned and the usual questions ensued. I am working with a different translator now; Rachma. Rachma has lived in the US for a few years and speaks excellent English. We worked just fine together.
The Consul General stayed for part of my speech and then left. It is clear to me that he is a very busy man and really cannot take too much time to attend to me . But that is fine, I do need some basic instructions and then I am off to do what I think needs to be done.
I was taken to a luncheon in honor of the Consul General. I stayed long enough to eat my lunch and then I had to leave to make the next appointment. Rachma and I went to a vocational high school. These high schools do not carry very informational names; merely called Government Vocational High School and then the name of the city. So I visited the one in Medan. Indonesians refer to these schools as SMK’s.
The SMK of Medan is the leading vocational school in the area of North Sumatra. The infrastructure is not pretty by any stretch of the imagination, but the students are absolutely adorable. The high school students of Indonesia bear very little resemblance to the attitudes of the USA variety. These students are all in uniform; most of the girls wearing the traditional head-scarf. They are respectful and eager to learn. I game my talk in a room with a temperature that must have been in the 90’s F. Despite the heat, the students seemed to be very interested. But it was at the end of the program that made my heart flutter. So many of the students wanted to have their picture taken with me. All of them wanted to shake my hand and several of the girls took my hand to touch their foreheads (a sign of great respect). I almost had tears in my eyes at this overwhelming experience.
I was then whisked away to a Education USA Fair. The Fair is sponsored by the Fulbright Foundation and provides an opportunity for students to learn about specific colleges. There were about 12 institutions represented. And, YES, Iowa State was among them!!
This day ended with some fatigue,  but some good feelings.

Sunday – Orangutans

There are a few days in a lifetime that you will always remember. Today will be one of those days for me. The diplomat from the Embassy and his family took me to the Orangutan reserve in the Sumatra rainforest. The hike was the most strenuous I have ever taken. The path was uphill with steep uneven steps. There were rocks and fallen trees to circumvent. And did I mention the heat? We also had to cross a rushing river via a flimsy boat. I am pleased that I made it, but I must say I was totally exhausted and had to stop several times to catch my breath. Yes, I am out of shape, but this terrain would challenge almost anyone.

The reward at the end of the journey was worth it. I was able to see orangutans in their natural habitat. This was NOT the zoo. I saw orangutans swinging in the trees and eating their lunch. I also saw some smaller monkeys as well. The rainforest is threatened due to logging. I am pleased that Indonesia is trying to set aside the land to support these beautiful animals.

Sunday-- In the Sumatra Rainforest

This picture says it all

Saturday - Feb. 20

It is hard to believe that I have been in Indonesia for over a week. But today marks the end of the first half of the trip where I was sponsored by the US Embassy in Jakarta. I travel today to Medan and will be hosted for the second half of this adventure by the Embassy contingent in Medan.

I received the morning newspaper, delivered to my hotel room. Of course the paper is written in Bahasa Indonesia so while I can’t understand it, I looked through it anyway to see if I could spot a story about my visit. It didn’t take me too long to find the words “Community Colleges” interspersed among the Bahasa words. A little more skimming and I spotted my name. So, I did make the Indonesian news! And, I had breakfast with two more reporters. The Embassy promised to send me the articles that they find in the various papers. It’s funny to be in the news here.

So a quick trip to the Balikpapan airport. The airport was very confusing and crowded. Before you can even go through the door, you have to go through security. Then have your bag wrapped with a cord (I am really not sure why….. but when in Indonesia, one does what they do). At the ticketing counter there was some adventure as my bags were overweight. The domestic flights have some pretty strict limits and my big bag violated them. I was not happy with the extremely high penalties. I had to pay the equivalent of $75 for excess baggage!!

The first airplane ride to Jakarta was uneventful – always a good thing for a flight. I was served a nice lunch and was able to unwind a bit. At Jakarta I bid farewell to my two escorts – Arend and Raizma. They were very helpful to me and we got along quite well. They were home and I had to board another plane to go to Medan.

The transfer from Jakarta to the Medan flight was a bit confusing. There was another security point and I wasn’t sure I was in the right place. But again, it all worked out and I was able to find the gate without incidence.

Medan is located in the north part of the island of Sumatra. It is very close to the Aceh area where the more Islam extremists live. As a matter of fact I saw some interesting sights at the airport – people who practice the more extreme versions of Islam. I saw a woman in a complete black veil-like robe that covered her from head to foot leaving barely her eyes visible. She even wore black gloves!! I can’t imagine having to be draped in all of that in a country that lies on the equator. The heat here is quite oppressive. It is common to find men in shorts and even shirtless – while the women are veiled and in the case of some covered 100%.

I was met at the airport by Karim, a public affairs assistant for the Consulate of the USA. He was able to spot me as I was the ONLY Caucasian in the airport!! We rode to the very modern Marriott hotel.

I am looking forward to tomorrow – my day off –. I am going with the cultural officer and his family to an orangutan reserve. EXCITING!

Friday -- Samarinda

As I write this, I am sitting in the back seat of an SUV driving from Samarinda to Balikpapan on the island of Borneo. The rain is coming down in sheets, but that is to be expected in the rainforest. Yes, the scenery is thick trees and brush. I haven’t seen any animals, but I am sure that they are currently seeking shelter from this tremendous rain. The road is winding and dangerous but I have faith in our driver.

Let me provide some details on the day. Our first stop was the State Polytechnic of Samarinda. This is a college that offers degrees in various types of engineering plus other related careers. I spoke to about 30 faculty. The presentation was very much like the others I have been delivering.

It is an interesting custom that the host institutions almost always provide us with a bottle of water or a cup of tea plus a light snack. This college provided a cup of hot tea plus a hamburger. It was wrapped in paper and resembled something fand rom McDonald’s. Actually it was quite good—a thin meat patty with slices of cucumber plus a different type of sauce.

We had some time between “gigs” so my hosts took me to a souvenir type of area in Samarinda. There were about 10 stalls of vendors selling items such as costume jewelry, t-shirts, sarongs, plus other items. I was able to purchase a few bracelets for souvenirs and a couple of t-shirts.

We stopped for lunch in a restaurant that had 3 walls and no air-conditioning. I wasn’t hungry after my hamburger, but I had a refreshing glass of guava juice. I have acquired quite a taste for the Indonesian guava juice and try to have some whenever I can.

The last speaking engagement today was at the Mulawarman University. This was a very large university in the typical condition that I have found most of these universities. Old and needing attention. We were taken to a very large room and I delivered a formal presentation to about 50 people. It went over well and there were three reporters present.

So much for now, I need to stop as I am feeling a little queasy on this road. The good news is that the rain has slowed down quite a bit.